International Woman of Mystery

Friday, June 29, 2007

Zamalek Game



Went to a Zamalek national soccer game. On TV.

So the other day some friends and I went to a tournament game between Zamalak and a Petrol company sponsored team. We were told that women would be harassed, so we were prepared for all kinds of shenanigans. We bought flags and dressed in white and red and cheered really hard. The fans were so much fun. Everyone was loud and really into the 1-0 match. Neither team was particularly amazing, but the dougnuts and the experience were. I got married at the game, and we were on TV.

Perhaps I should elaborate: at half time, everyone wanted to take pictures with us. EVERYONE: The people sitting in the presidential section were reaching through the gates and over the armed riot police to snap our shots. All the men and teenagers nearby wanted a shot or two. Everyone wanted to say hi and get photos with me on their camera phones. Little kids crouded around us, counting us, hugging us, giving us cookies. Karen commented that we were like monkies in a zoo, but I prefer to think of it as another VIP experience... Either way. Dorian commented that we would probably be on the jumbotron since everyone wanted to take pictures. No sooner did he say it then we looked up and there we were! Awesome. Next thing you know it is playing on TV (we saw it again when we got back to the dorms), and it was posted on U-Tube in the game highlights. Yes.

Definitely going back for the championship next Saturday night. Would it be wrong to switch teams and root for the #1 seed, el-Ahley? Naaaah.



Watch on UTube

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Sunday, June 17, 2007

Cairo





I love my program.

My classes are so interesting.

My fellow classmates are both fun and smart.

Cairo is beautiful.

I don't have as much time as I would like to have right now, but I will write more later.

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Thursday, February 08, 2007

So close, yet so far...

“I wonder why the issue of recognizing Israel is the key to everything?” Mr. Hamad said. “We are interested to end the siege, but not at any cost.”

He added: “We try to balance between our Palestinian national constants and our opening up to the international community. Israel is not ready to deal with any Palestinian side unless the Palestinians deal with the Israeli conditions.”

-NYTimes

Today, Fatah and Hamas have taken a huge step toward ending sectarian fighting that has been escalating since Hamas, the anti-Israel religious group voted into power because of promises to fix problems like education and health care in the Palestinian Territories, and recently came to a head with violent attacks between the parties. On one hand, this is a very positive step. Palestinian unity is important in the process that Palestinians hope will eventually lead to statehood. Both groups made political concessions today during the Saudi-initiated talks which ultimately show their commitment to the Palestinian people by ending pointless violence. Even the wording used in the new joint government resolution which says that the new leadership will "respect" Palestinian-Israeli agreements as opposed to "commit” to such agreements, can be viewed with a positive twist. Peace depends on the unification of the parties, and in reality, the difference between "respect" and "commit" is a semantic one, and hopefully, a steady peace between Israel and the Territories can be achieved out of the shaky wording as time goes by.

One major problem, however, cannot be glossed over with a coat of optimism: Hamad's public comments about not recognizing Israel. There can be no peace without recognizing that Israel is a legitimate state. Guys, NEWSFLASH: no one is packing up and leaving. Israel is a populous, thriving country with some of the best technology, the best defense and the best intelligence in the world. It is wealthy and organized; not to mention well-supported. Israel is there. Right now, "Palestine" is NOT a country. It is a series of disorganized, angry (albeit with good reason), poorly-backed, groups of people inside another country; Israel. There is absolutely no reason why Israel has to make any concessions for Palestinians. Israel is not going to give land to help create another hostile neighbor. Hamad may want to work for the Palestinian interests, but he can be pretty sure that Israel will justifiably act in its own best interest, and until Palestinians at least recognize Israel, they will not be given a chance to work for anything. Regardless of how embittered Palestinians are, nothing can be negotiated (or fought for---I think we've established that by now) regarding Israel, without Israel. This is how the conversation goes:

Palestinian Representative: Tell them we want to talk.
Russian/US/UN/Egyptian Rep: They want to talk
Israel: What do you want?
Russian/US/UN/Egyptian Rep: What do you want?
Palestinian Representative: We don't want Israel to exist. We want our own state.
Russian/US/UN/Egyptian Rep: They don't want Israel to exist. They want their own state.
Israel: No. Annnd No.
Russian/US/UN/Egyptian Rep: Well thanks for your time.

I grant that this is an obviously simplified version of peace talks, but stubbornness on both sides does not bode well for the immediate future of the conflict
.
It boggles my mind that Palestinian leadership "does not understand why everything revolves around recognizing Israel's right to exist." These are not uneducated peope, Palestinians, on the whole, are incredibly well educated, and their leadership is mostly foreign-educated, at the best universities in the world no less. Recognition is a threshold issue, and without recognition, the international community and Israel are justified in keeping statehood/autonomy talks at a stand-still. Why should Israel talk--all they will be doing is giving; giving land, loosening security measures, and for what? The idea is that all of this would be in exchange for peace and a halt to the terror attacks, but with the antagonism that anti-Israeli propaganda and statements like that of Hamad proppel, Israel should not, and frankly is not likely to, count on that peace. The only thing recognizing Israel would hurt is Palestinian pride (and perhaps the Israeli position). Strategically, not so smart move by the Palestinians.

Yes, respect should be mutual. Yes concessions will have to be mutual. Yes Israel should stop developing new settlements now (or by 2001…). However, incentive is everything, and if the new Palestinian representative government is hoping for a new start, "respect" for agreements can only take the process so far. Respect for Israel's right to exist? That, is the opportunity a unified Palestinian government could and should take in a time ripe for change within the territory. Peace talks cannot start unless you sit down at the table, and recognize that the one you are in conflict with exists and has a face. Pretending the person doesn’t exist, will not make them want to recognize you.

So much promise...so obviously not happening. While Palestinian unity is a step in the right direction, melding a flawed but semi-legit organization with a declared terrorist one and then making such pig-headed official comments about Israel and about the peace process, is several steps backward--not the way to lasting peace...perhaps it will be the way to cut even more government funding though...

Hopefully this is not characteristic of the initiatives the new government will take, and instead it can take affirmative steps in ending the suffering of its heavily burdened people.

Hamad doesn't understand why the process revolves around admitting legitimacy.
I don't understand what he doesn't understand.

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Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Chief Rabbinate getting stricter on conversions

There are very specific requirements for Jewish conversions, and in the past only those done by Orthodox rabbis were accepted by the Chief Rabbinate of Israel as being correct. This already strict standard is getting stricter as the Rabbinate's members are embracing more haredi (ultra-Orthodox) Judaism. Now, some conversions supervised and performed by rabbis who are part of the Beth Din of America and other accepted Orthodox institutions are not being accepted.
Unlike in Christianity, conversion to Judaism is discouraged. Reasons for this vary, but include converts' failure to keep the commandments or reverting back to old non-Jewish customs, skepticism about converts because of instances of spying and betrayal that led to pogroms in the past, as well as Judaism's unique status as a religion and a race/ethnicity/nationality* (you can't convert to be Spanish or Black), as well as, (my personal favorite) to encourage sincere conversions and not ones formed because of coercive missionary tactics.
In fact, one of the requirements of a Torah (halachic, legal, or traditional) conversion is that the convert be turned away. This is not necessarily to dissuade him or her, but to clarify their conviction and motives. Traditionally (and on Sex and the City), this is done three times.
The second requirement for conversion is instruction. This means instruction in matters of Jewish law. This period of study lasts for a time determined by the individual rabbi, usually 3-4 years in a traditional shul, 1+ in a Conservative temple, (I cannot really speak for Reform and Reconstructionist Jewish practice, but again it varies), but really depending on the individual and his or her circumstances. During this period, the ger (stranger) learns the ways of Jewish life and practice and becomes familiar in Jewish settings, religious, cultural, and otherwise.
After the instruction, the aspiring convert must appear before a Beit Din, or panel of three judges skilled in Jewish conversion law. Each of the judges ask the ger questions, and if answered satisfactorily, the covert-to-be is completely submersed according to specifications of Jewish law into a mikvah or ritual bath. When he or she comes out, he or she is said to have a Jewish soul. Men who are uncircumcised must also be circumcised, and those who already are typically have a drop of blood drawn as a symbol of this practice.
The Law of Return, Israel's policy of giving citizenship to any Jewish person, has brought attention to the question, "who is a Jew?" At first, the Israeli government agreed that anyone who is Jewish or has a Jewish mother was a Jew (sounds like stating the obvious in the form of a tongue twister). Under this law a man born to a Jewish mother who converts to Christianity and becomes a priest would get free citizenship in Israel as a Jew. While gentiles, atheists, and anyone is welcome to apply for Israeli citizenship, the "free pass" citizenship is only meant to be extended to Jews. This automatic citizenship to any Jewish person isn't meant to spite non-Jews, but really is meant among other reasons rooted in custom and religious belief, to provide a safe-haven for a people who has historically (and currently--anyone who disagrees will get an earful from me and an inbox full of examples from the U.S. and abroad) been persecuted and discriminated against. To avoid situations like the one I mentioned (which happened), which do not serve the purpose of the Law of Return, Israel has made more qualifications as to what being Jewish means legally in Israel. The definition was narrowed to include only those who had a Jewish mother or who converted through an approved Orthodox organization. While a valid conversion according to the laws of the Torah can debatably** be performed by a very careful rabbi and Beit Din***, the state of Israel has chosen to only accept Orthodox conversions.
Of course there are different strands or identifications within traditional or Orthodox Judaism--a whole spectrum of observant communities and individuals. These articles I have attached show Israel's shift to only legitimize those on most theologically conservative end of that spectrum.

While I won't say I don't understand the Chief Rabbinate's need to keep the Law of Return to Jewish people, I feel for the people in these articles who were refused citizenship when they are absolutely 100% legitimate Jews according to their lifestyle and according to the Torah. After a conversion, you are not supposed to mention the covert's former identity as a non-Jew. He or she is supposed to be fully accepted, adopted into the fold, as commanded in the Torah. I have seen that 24, 36 or 46 (depending on the source) different bible passages are violated with the mistreatment of a ger, literally, stranger, and understood to mean convert.


Ve’ahavta lo kamocha, ki geirim he’yitem. You must love him [the convert] as yourself. Vayikra (16:23-24).

Anyway, here are the articles. (and there went two hours writing this! does anyone read the whole thing?) Take a look! They're very interesting:

Cases of the Chief Rabbinate's decisions
http://www.irac.org/article_e.asp?artid=23
http://www.thejewishweek.com/news/newscontent.php3?artid=12414


*With the formation of the state of Israel, Judaism is regarded less as a nationality, though in the past, even earlier this century, there were intense debates about whether a Jewish person could also be French, for instance. Now however, Diaspora Jews are distinguished from Israeli Jews. The former are considered French, Guatemalan, American, etc., while the latter are Israeli (Christians, Muslims and others with Israeli citizenship are also Israeli, so Israeli is a secular national classification).
**Not all Jewish scholars hold this view, see http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Judaism/whojew1.html
Standards for rabbinical ordination differ among different branches of Judaism, so even if a conversion is otherwise proper, some would not consider the requirement that a conversion is performed by "rabbis versed in Jewish law" to be fulfilled by a Reform or Conservative rabbi.
*** Actually, according to the literal law, in addition to the other requirements noted above, converts also had to bring sacrifice to the Holy Temple. A small minority believe that no conversions can be performed because the temple in Jerusalem was destroyed in 70CE, so no convert can complete the process.

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Friday, November 17, 2006

My scathing opinion of banning burqas

It is outright invidious religious and cultural discrimination to ban burqas in public. This is a worse idea than the French banning hejabs (headscarves worn by some Muslim women) in schools (and that is a bad idea), because it is not a restriction limited to public school buildings. As I am taking Constitutional Law, I am learning how courts view legislation like this. As far as I can tell, this type of a bill would never pass an Equal Protection analysis in the U.S., so that is an incredible relief. But of course, you never know what can happen. It is fantastically disturbing that liberal Western European countries are reacting to diversity in such negative ways. Here's what I think; I welcome all opinions and feedback.

Basically the cabinet in the Netherlands is considering passing a bill that would ban women from wearing burqas, long dress-like over garments that cover the head and varying portions of the face. The reasons for this ban are public safety and to promote social behavior that leads to integration.

Now, personally, I am not a fan of the burqa. I while I am friends with women who wear head scarves, I have yet to get close to a woman who covers her whole body, so I my opinions are limited. Because of this limited perspective, when I see women completely covered, either here in my neighborhood in New York, or from my travels in North Africa, I can't help but wonder if it is a sign of the subordination of women under the guise of religion. I hope that no woman wearing a burqa is forced to do so either by their governments or by the men in their lives.

So, why not ban burqas then? Well, because for one, the picture I painted above is not always true. Islam does not specifically require women to wear any one type of clothing, but rather requires modesty. Modesty in Islam, as in American culture, has a whole range of applications and interpretations. Some people and cultures interpret that to mean dressing modestly but not covering the hair, while others cover their hair and others yet cover their noses, mouths, or whole faces.

See these sites for different types of attire:
BBC illustrations
BBC photos

Burqas, as with the hejab, are not only worn for religious reasons. In the Gulf for instance, the garment is just common outer wear. When outside, women wear black burqas and men wear white robes (often with the red-checkered kifeyah wrapped atop their heads). Women who have worked in the US alone, wear thong underwear (not as a result of being in the US), and are good Muslims, but certainly not fanatics, wear them in their home countries, not because they have to, but because it is tradition. The burqa can be just as much a cultural symbol as it is a religious expression. Whatever the reason for wearing one, I think that personal decision should be left as just that, a personal decision.

The ban of a type of clothing worn out of religious or cultural conviction to me screams Orwellian-style government intervention with individual liberties. The arguments the state makes (Public safety, socialization--Netherlands, distracting in public schools--France, health and safety--England)are the most offensive. Those reasons may be legitimate government interests, but they target small minority groups. According to CNN, there are about 30 women in the Netherlands who wear burqas--this seems like an unnecessary focus of the legislature. Legislation aiming to fix any of these broad problems is way too under inclusive to claim that it solves the problem.


Me in Cairo.

Over inclusive too:

Public safety. I could hide a bomb or a machine gun under my trench coat just as easily as someone could hide one under a burqa. Does anyone remember what the kids at Columbine wore? Not burqas. So what now, no long coats? Unlikely.

Identification. First, in schools, girls can sit at desks with their names. A teacher could create a seating chart. It is unnecessary to strip someone (quite literally) of her beliefs or customs in a school situation. In public of course, the arguments are even easier. The big question is: Why do you need to identify someone in public? I can paint my face or wear a mustache and walk around and no one will say a thing about the legality of it. In a European country, if you thought a woman was doing something illegal, wouldn't she be MORE identifiable in a burqa?
Conversation that will never happen in the Netherlands:
"Officer, help! A woman took my purse!"
"Where is she?"
"The one in black head to toe"
"Geez, can you be a little more specific?"

Socialization and integration. First of all, I find it morally disturbing that people, and, G-d knows whole countries, make it their goal to achieve cultural and racial homogeneity. What is wrong with someone speaking Spanish? or Arabic? Cooking falafel? Playing on an all-black baseball team? But okay, so even if I can buy that it is desirable for people to at least have options, social mobility etc and that this is related to assimilation or integration, you can't force someone to dress how you want them to! If we start doing that, there will be no kippot (skullcaps worn by observant Jewish men), no bindis (jewels on the foreheads of Hindu women), and no kilts. I can wear whatever I want, and I am aware that if I wear certain things, some people may not be as likely to speak to me--I would imagine that Muslims in Europe and the US are aware of that. If they have a problem with it, they can be proactive in a) reaching out to people or b) taking off the garment. The fact is, it is unfair to single out women who wear burqas for discrimination simply because it seems strange by Western standards for a woman to cover herself. If you don't like burqas, don't wear one.

Two women in conservative dress.

Arguing that women wear them to job interviews set up by the state welfare agencies so they don't have to work is ridiculous. First off, I doubt that is why they wear it if they do not otherwise. But, even if someone has done that--what is the difference between someone wearing a burqa and someone showing up in too-tight jeans with a belly piercing, fake nails, and cleavage up to her chin? That woman might not get a job either, but the state isn't outlawing jeans that are three sizes too small (now there's a thought). (In fact, I personally would be more inclined to hire a woman in a burqa than the other woman because I would be more assured of her professional boundaries.) A state agency could certainly recommend what proper attire for an interview might be, but if the individual doesn't wear it, they are no less culpable for wearing a burqa as they are for wearing a their gym clothes.

Health. What? Seriously now. Are wearing burqas and poor health even rationally related?


My friend who wears hejab.

On one hand it is interesting that I am a feminist and I am arguing in favor of the burqa. Just a few years ago, as suggested by Amnesty International, I was writing to a power company in Taliban-controlled Afghanistan (before 9/11, when people didn't even know where the country was yet) discouraging their involvement with the government because it required women to be covered from head-to-toe and accompanied by a male escort in order to leave the house. However, I think the key to my concern lies in the government control. In my mind it is unacceptable to require by law that a woman wear a burqa but similarly unjust outlaw a legitimate type of individual cultural or religious expression. Just as the law in Afghanistan was a terrible disservice to modern liberal women who do not wish to wear the burqa, so are these bans invidious towards traditional women who wear them.

If we are trying to increase socialization, we will not achieve it by these means, because such restrictions only discourage it. They drive angry parents to pull their daughters out of public schools and send them to private religious institutions. This is a) more likely (though obviously not certain) to cause indoctrination with just the extremist values we seek to squelch and b) injurious to the general public because it limits contact with other cultures and is a cause for children to grow up as narrow-minded, ethnocentric, and xenophobic adults (who make legislation that with the intent to harm minorities with the smallest political and social voices. Again, I don't like burqas, but this legislation is not needed, and it is really just serving to increase hostility towards Muslims, regardless of how they dress. It is hard to say that a full burqa is illegal, but it is ok to wear a niqab (see bbc cite above), what about other traditional attire? I hate to make the slippery slope argument, but I think it is legitimate here. Even if women in burqas represent an archaic manifestation of patriarchal dominance in the form of religious extremism (which I don't think they generally do), do you think that a ban on them will change that? I think the more likely result would be that these women would be prevented from leaving their homes, so as to not dishonor themselves, their families and their husbands by showing their bodies immodestly in public. Obviously this is not the desired result.

Obviously these legislative trends suck.


My Moroccan friend who definitely doesn't wear hejab.

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Sunday, August 20, 2006

Proportionality Discussion

----This is an email I received on a my law school listserve. I don't deny that I also question Israel's response in the recent continuation of the conflict with Hezbollah, but this is an interesting piece. This is a terrible war, and it is not as black and white as many would make it.----

"The Fantasy World of International Law The criticism of Israel has been "disproportionate." by Jeremy Rabkin At the outset of the current war in Lebanon, governments in Europe protested that Israel's response was "disproportionate." The U.N. human rights commissioner, Louise Arbour, endorsing this claim, spoke darkly of Israeli "war crimes." I happened to be at a conference in mid-July where there were a number of military lawyers. I asked one of them, who teaches military law at one of the service academies, what this talk about "proportionality" actually meant. The answer was prompt and succinct: "It means they don't like Israel."

From the perspective of international law, it doesn't take much to condemn Israel. Year after year, for example, the old Human Rights Commission devoted more time to condemnations of Israel than to any other topic, while often ignoring atrocities elsewhere. That was one reason the U.N. abolished the commission last year, substituting a supposedly more sober Human Rights Council. In its first year, the new council decided to forgo other distractions and devote all its country-specific resolutions to condemnations of Israel.

Still, it is worth pausing over the argument, because it reveals quite a bit about the way standards for military action are now treated by specialists in international law. For most European countries, these standards are literally academic--since few European military forces can imagine engaging in anything close to actual war. But the trend in opinion in this area will have implications for the handful of military powers remaining--of which, come to think of it, Israel is not the only one.

Start with the source of the relevant standards. The two treaties most often cited by scholars are Additional Protocol I to the Geneva Conventions (1977) and the Statute of the International Criminal Court (1998). The Additional Protocol was the first treaty attempting to set standards for military tactics and the overall conduct of war since the Hague Conventions of 1907. (The 1949 Geneva Conventions dealt with specialized matters such as the treatment of war prisoners, sick or wounded combatants, and civilians in occupied territories.) Relevant provisions of the ICC statute for the most part simply recite standards set down in the Additional Protocol.

Both treaties contain constraining provisions that might seem relevant to Israel's military actions--especially to the bombing that could have been expected to cause extensive casualties or severe hardships to civilians. The most obvious difficulty with citing these standards, however, is that Israel is not a party to these treaties. Nor, as it happens, is the United States.

The failure of Israel and the United States to ratify these measures ought to detract a good deal from their relevance, especially since the failure was not a matter of pique. Whereas previous Geneva Conventions had protected uniformed, disciplined armies that complied with the laws of war, the Additional Protocol sought to extend protection to guerrilla forces and terrorist groups. Yasser Arafat's PLO was granted observer status at the negotiating conference and expressed satisfaction with the results, especially the embrace in the very first article of the treaty of "conflicts in which peoples are fighting against colonial domination and alien occupation and against racist regimes"--understood by everyone in 1977 as a reference to Israel, given the recent U.N. General Assembly resolution equating Zionism with "racism." The Reagan administration, rejecting U.S. participation in this treaty, warned that the treaty would give special protections to terrorist groups.

Does a treaty have any claim on a state that has not ratified it? Scholars insist that even states that have not ratified a particular treaty may still be bound by its terms if they have entered into "customary law" or "usage." But it would be very hard to show that Israel's targeting in Lebanon was in clear violation of standards that are otherwise widely respected. (They certainly weren't by Russia in Chechnya or NATO in Kosovo.) What scholars assume is that "custom" can be derived not from what states actually do but from what diplomats say. Counting that way, you can amass quite a lot of "votes" on the side of the Geneva and ICC standards, because most countries have ratified them--and most have no contrary practice because they have not actually been at war. In effect, claim to these treaties as "international law" is to claim that a majority of the General Assembly can legislate for the world. I f you view the relevant standards in this light, then it may seem quite reasonable that these standards should still apply to one side in a war, even when its enemy defies them. The traditional view, reflecting the logic of war, was quite the opposite. The Hague Convention on the Laws of War on Land (1907) carefully stipulated at the outset that its standards would "not apply except between contracting powers"--that is, states adhering to these standards--"and then only if all the belligerents are parties to the Convention." The signatories were not even willing to be bound by these rather general constraints against a power that might gain advantage by acting in collusion with a nonsignatory. The Hague standards were negotiated, for the most part, by a circle of European governments thinking quite concretely about what constraints they could accept in what circumstances. They were not willing to accept constraints against enemies that did not. No one engaged in any hand-wringing at the Hague over the fact that in recent colonial wars--by the British in South Africa, the Americans in the Philippines, the Germans in Southwest Africa--Western armies had not complied with standards set down in the 1899 version of the Hague Convention. By contrast, the scholars who rely on the Additional Protocol (like its drafters) imagine a world in which the actions of one side in a war make no difference to the obligations of the other. So, for example, the Additional Protocol admonishes that signatories should, "to the maximum extent feasible . . . avoid locating military objectives within or near densely populated areas" (Art. 58). But the language of other provisions (such as Art. 57, avoiding "incidental loss of civilian life, injury to civilians and damage to civilian objects") suggests that failure by one side to respect this obligation has no effect on the other. So if one side hides its missile launchers in civilian neighborhoods--or in the schools, hospitals, and religious and cultural sites supposed to receive special protection--the other side is still obliged to avoid attacking. In other words, by a literal reading, the Additional Protocol rewards those who use civilians as human shields. That is consistent with provisions granting protected status to guerrilla and terrorist forces, embracing those who defy the laws of war by blending in with--and thereby endangering--the surrounding population.

If you can get past these objections, it may then seem quite easy to invoke various provisions in the Additional Protocol to show that major Israeli actions were "disproportionate" to what even critics concede was a legitimate Israeli claim to undertake some sort of defensive action. Among other things, the 1977 Protocol admonishes that when "several military objectives" may provide "a similar military advantage," states must choose the attack "which may be expected to cause the least danger to civilian lives and to civilian objects" (Art. 57).

Yet there is something quite strange in this line of argument, too. The relevant provisions in the Protocol deal with "military advantage"--that is, tactical aims. The real issue is strategic: What would bring "victory," or how should "victory" be defined? At the strategic level, if you measure the response by the scale of the provocation, you reward aggressors by allowing them to control the scale of the response. Object to Germany's sinking of passenger ships in the mid-Atlantic? We might retaliate by seizing some German ships in U.S. ports. Object to Japanese attacks on U.S. warships in Hawaii? We might even the score by attacking a comparable number of Japanese ships somewhere else.

What is missing, of course, is the thought behind the old-fashioned expression "an act of war": Germany's resort to unrestricted submarine warfare in 1917 and Japan's attack on Pearl Harbor were seen as provocations that had to be met by all out war. The point isn't that we necessarily had to fight an inhumane war--though a war that culminated in the nuclear devastation of two Japanese cities was not exactly fought by Hague standards (as even the blockade of food shipments to Germany in the First World War departed from Hague standards). The larger point is that once you get into something called "war," you are trying to impose your will on the enemy and not simply engaging in tit for tat. It is one thing to engage in punitive raids, though even punitive raids make sense only if the response can be more painful than the initial attack. Otherwise, a very constrained response risks inviting future attacks at the enemy's discretion. At some point, a full war goes beyond such skirmishing. War is, in effect, a struggle over the future relations between the warring parties and which side's standards for that future will finally prevail. And as the world wars proved, war is sometimes a quite effective answer to the original dispute. Nobody has been troubled by Japanese or German aggression in many decades.

There are all sorts of complications, of course, when "war" involves a terrorist force, like Hezbollah, which is not even a state--though it is clearly an instrument of state policies formulated in Damascus and Tehran. It may well be that Israel's response will not, in the end, enhance its own security. But that is, at the strategic level, a risk in every war. More often than not, one side emerges from war worse off than if it had not fought in the first place. That is what makes war decisive--and also less common than small skirmishes. T he relevant question, if you want to be legalistic, is not whether resort to war is sound policy but whether it is within the rights of legitimate state conduct. The question is whether Israel's actions are within the range of what our own Declaration of Independence (which was, after all, justifying resort to war) called "things which independent states may of right do." The relevant legal question, to put it more precisely, is whether standards can be changed as the result of treaties that are rarely invoked, less often observed, and not ratified by the parties to the actual conflict. Condemning the scale of Israel's response does make some sense, as everything else argued by the critics makes some sense, if you view the issues in the light of domestic analogies. We allow private individuals to use force against, say, someone who breaks into a private home--but no more force than is required to repel or disable the intruder. Some states do allow homeowners to use guns to defend themselves, even if the resulting act of self-defense proves fatal to the intruder, but other states impose more restrictions on "defensive gun use" (including restrictions on access to guns in the first place). Whatever one might say about moral claims to self-defense, most of us, most of the time, acknowledge that the binding law is the law enacted by the state legislature, even though the legislators who voted for that law may be disproportionately from low-crime districts and lacking therefore an adequate understanding of what is really at stake for residents of the most dangerous areas. Homeowners are not exempted from the relevant state law just because they disagree with it. In the domestic setting, we accept that the right to self-defense is determined by a constitutional structure, and the rules are the rules, including the rules for determining the rules.

So it might seem entirely reasonable to condemn Israel's actions, if you think the Lebanon war takes place in the realm of what German commentators, following Jürgen Habermas, call Weltinnenpolitik--global domestic policy. What Luxembourg and Iceland and New Zealand and other nice countries (and their coalition partners in somewhat nastier countries) view as the proper standards will be the proper standards, and Israel must adhere to them, even if its enemies don't, because rules are rules and preserving the rules is more important than achieving any particular strategic objective of any particular state.

It all makes sense, in a way--particularly if you live in Luxembourg and never have to give any thought to your own defense, because others will see to it for you. Lots of Europeans like to think of themselves as citizens of greater Luxembourg. It happens not to be a luxury that Israel can afford, living in a region where some of the strongest states--notably Iran--are dedicated to its destruction. If Israel could not defend itself, what international authority would it call to provide protection from outside? The U.N.? That is the very body that established the "international force" in Lebanon that has, in effect, operated as Hezbollah's chaperone for the past quarter century, looking the other way as terrorists acquired a vast arsenal of missiles. Asking Israel to rely on the U.N. for its protection makes sense only if you think Israel has no more right to defend itself than the majority of U.N. members think it ought to have. This is not a very reassuring notion for Israel, given the U.N.'s record.

The United States is, in all sorts of ways, in a different position from Israel. What the two have in common, however, is not just many of the same enemies. The United States has a similar stake in resisting the assumptions that have come to prevail in much of the legal commentary on Israel's tactics in this war. For some reasons that are similar to Israel's and some that are almost the opposite, the United States also cannot regard its military options as if it were merely a greater Luxembourg. Jeremy Rabkin teaches international law at Cornell University and is author, most recently, of Law without Nations? Why Constitutional Government Requires Sovereign States (Princeton)."

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Wednesday, July 19, 2006

City of the Dead

Thousands of Egypt’s urban poor have nowhere to go, and live in cemeteries. They live in mausoleums. “Previously, Cairo rulers chose the area for their tombs outside the crowded city in a deserted location. “This area was used as a burial ground for the Arab conquests, Fatimids, Abbasids, Ayyubids, Mamlukes, Ottomans, and many more…In modern times, because of Egypt’s housing crisis, a lack of satisfactory and affordable housing for a rapidly growing population, many poor Egyptians have made these rooms (graves) their permanent homes. More than five million Egyptian live in these cemeteries,” (http://touregypt.net/featurestories/city.htm).

After weighing various warnings against going with the Rough Guide blurb that it is okay if you are careful and my own insatiable desire to take risks and see something interesting (and dangerous, yay!) along with Greg and Atif’s general agreeableness, we went to the one such cemetery.

We felt really out of place. We walked quickly once inside the gates. There were people eating and sitting outside mausoleums. There were graves in the “streets.” We took winding a winding path so as to be able to snap a few photos. Then, having been discovered, we took more winding paths to as to avoid those following us. Eventually, we lost all but one. We ended up talking to him (well, Atif did. This might be repetitive, but I don’t speak Arabic). He was rather shady, rotten teeth even though he probably wasn’t more than 18. He asked us where we were from, Pakistan (I love Osama bin Ladin---the common response. I thought that was incredible as I heard it over and over again), Switzerland and Switzerland. (USA USA USA—but no one was ever the wiser). He produced a silver evil eye medallion and gave it to me. He wanted something back in return. “Something interesting.” I looked through my purse for a suitable gift. It was kinda tough cuz I had, let’s see, an iPod (no) some headphones (nope) camera (nope) notebook with my “Arabic,” a bunch of Moroccan recipes, and Kaitlyn’s address (no), and there was no way I was taking out my wallet. By some stroke of luck, I found some body spray and gave it to him. We explained how to use it and demonstrated. He loved it. As we were leaving I strayed behind a minute to look at an inscription (okay, and to try to take one more photo---I know, I know), the guy walked with me and took my arm stopping me in my tracks, puckered his lips and pointed to my mouth. “La,” I shook my head and finger and touched my right arm to my chest backing away. Not making out with this dude, nooo thank you. He was trying to ask me something. “Uh, guys—wait for me! What’s he asking?” He wanted to know if I was married (are you seeing a common theme here?). “Aaah” I say and point at the rings I wear on my pinky finger (not exactly wedding bands) but they did the trick. “Aaaah,” he nods, understanding. We left the cemetery triumphantly. Though uncomfortable, we came away having seen something really cool and what could have been a Sisqo experience turned out to be positive (except for the near kiss) all around.

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Sufi Dancing (whirling dirvishes)


These guys were insane. Or in ecstasy. One of the guys spun for about 40 minutes. I felt like I was in almost as much of a trance as he was. I was sincerely worried for his health. How would he come out of the spinning? Would he fall over and die? Would he have to lay on the ground and retch? Eventually he just stopped. He stood perfectly still. Incredible.

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Egypt




So I decided I wanted to go to Egypt. I have to tell you, it’s actually rather far from Morocco. But in any case, I went. I met some fantastic people there. Here’s the play by play:
Day 1
Got to Kaitlyn’s (see “I am a navigational genius” post).
Slept 2 hours
Egyptian Museum hours of mummies and artifacts—really cool.
Walked along the Nile & the AUC campus
Went to the Cairo Tower and hung out
Party at Ryan and Bub’s in Ma’adi at night.

Day 2
7AM leave for Agami (beach town in the N near Alex) with lots of ppl
Spend day there.
Nearly die on the way home. Not kidding.

Day 3
Coptic Cairo see churches, synagogue, graveyards, walk around.
Pick up another friend at café
Credit card stops working.
Eat koshery ( I had been eating before this, but the sheer amount of pasta, chick peas, fava beans, noodles, lentils and sauce consumed warrents mention here)
Go to Atif’s
Sufi Dancing show
Khan el halili
Smoke shisha.
Buy shisha.
Go back to Kaitlyn’s
Forget to take shisha from Greg, who is so kindly carrying it.

Day 4
Pyramids at Giza
Looong lunch and convo
Islamic Cairo
Fight with cab driver
See various mosques. Fail to view city from minarets.
Walk in slums searching for City of the Dead
Take cab to City of the Dead
ENTER City of the Dead (see post).
World Cup Final
Exchange of photos
Flight out (my flight out is actually part of Day 5, but such a day never really existed for me, as I didn’t sleep. Pure delirium).

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The Sahara Trip





Jackson Bentley: What attracts you personally to the desert? T.E. Lawrence: It's clean.

It may be clean, but after sweating, riding camels and not showering, I was not. When I got back there was sand coming from my clothes and bags for days. Such a cool trip. We got back from the Sahara (at 6 this morning). It was incredible. We rode camels through the Sahara (ouch!), ate delicious Friday couscous at Hassan’s ( Hassan=a palace worker/desert marathon runner), went off-roading in the desert, danced with our Berber guides to Berber music, slept under the stars, witnessed rain (!), witnessed a sandstorm (!), played marco polo at a hotel pool, climbed a huge sand dune (Well, some of us did. Of course I was there….), took a horse carriage ride out to a "forest" where we ate rabbit, enjoyed a backrub train, and practically bathed in a cold well, and finally, last but certainly not least, we saw Youssef “lose his cool” (FUNNY). I’ll tell you that story:

So we are at the very end of our trip, pretty much just waiting to embark on the 9 hour ride back to Rabat. Now, you have to consider that Youssef, our Moroccan friend who was leading all of us helpless and hapless trainees, had not slept in two nights and led us around and arranged EVERYTHING for us. He was loosely nicknamed the Moroccan Kramer bc he would always be popping up somewhat unexpectedly and he always had amazing amounts of excess positive energy even when the rest of us were wilting under the heat. We left for the desert on Friday night around 9PM and arrived in the morning at 6ish, and it was really tough to sleep on the bus. I sat by Youssef. He didn’t sleep (unfortunately I know). Then the next night we spent in the 110 degree heat. At night when everyone else was absolutely exhausted, Youssef couldn’t sleep. We were all lying on carpets laid out on the sand, and there were cats all over the place allegedly protecting us from alleged desert animals (scorpions, spiders…ick), and they were meowing and playing all night. As we were trying to fall asleep, every two minutes we’d hear, “Sssshhh! Get away from me! Fuck! Get! Shoo! I HATE them!” and something would be thrown or bug spray would be dispersed at a cat. After this went on for an hour or so, Michel and I invited Youssef to sleep in the middle, away from the edge of the carpet so that cats wouldn’t bother him. He did, but he kept up the anti-cat rally pretty much all night. When I went to bed he was sitting up shooing the cats. When I woke up, he was shooing the cats. He says he didn’t sleep because they were “crawling all over him” (they weren’t crawling on me, but hey). I have no reason to doubt that he didn’t sleep. So anyway, we’re getting ready to board the bus. Youssef says we are in a super shady area in Erfoud and we should stay in a group. He asked who needed to use a bathroom. No one said anything, but there were some people who wanted water. Youssef led some people to get water, but then (and I am one of these people, I admit it) some people realized they did, in fact, need to go to the bathroom and should go before the long bus ride back began in about 13 minutes (much searching, Turkish toilette, no lights, Michel buckled under the pressure of the decision. We had to hold it)…So we left. We didn’t get to go to the bathroom, but we did meet a frazzled Youssef who couldn’t find a trainee and his friend. They too had wandered off, and he had expected the worst. When they showed up mere moments before the bus left, Youssef said something along the lines of, “Where the hell were you guys? Don’t you know you can’t wander off like that?” He apologized the rest of the night for being so harsh with them. Hilarious. I seriously admire his patience. Even when he gets impatient, he is a model of togetherness. I sat next to him on the bus ride back. I am happy to report that he did eventually doze off.

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